From
Chevetogne Abbey to Aachen Cathedral: A Lenten retreat
Reflections
on my retreat at Chevetogne Abbey & visit to Aachen Cathedral,
April 2019.
Focus
texts: Matthew
6:6; Passion Narratives (Jesus & Pilate); The Rule of St.
Benedict
As
many of you will know, I am someone who likes being busy, doing
things I enjoy, and living a generally active lifestyle. But I had
also felt a desire to take a break, in order to reflect on my journey
with God and my discernment process with the Church by means of a
retreat – particularly a monastic one – whenever such an
opportunity arose. Moreover, travelling is one of my favourite
hobbies; whether returning somewhere familiar to me, or exploring a
completely new place. For a week during Lent last month, I made my
first visit to Belgium and Germany, to spend a few days on a monastic
retreat at the beautiful and ecumenical Chevetogne Abbey, after which
we also visited Aachen Cathedral just across the border.
I
particularly wanted to go on a monastic retreat because I had gone to
school at Ampleforth College, a Benedictine Roman Catholic school
attached to an Abbey in the countryside of North Yorkshire. It was my
time at Ampleforth which introduced me to Roman Catholicism (and,
perhaps, my particular appreciation of the Catholic tradition in the
Church of England); I attended Mass and sung in the choir, and I
often attended Compline since the monastic offices were also open to
everyone. As a student, I had been on a number of retreats organised
by the school, both with my house and my school's year-group. But
what would a monastic retreat in a smaller group as a prospective
ordinand in the Church of England be like?
Chevetogne
Abbey is beautifully set just outside a small village in the
countryside not far from a city; rather like Ampleforth. The
community, true to their Benedictine identity and the Rule,
extended a warm welcome to us as soon as we arrived. They invited us
to attend all of the services as we wished, and we ate together with
them at mealtimes. Their hospitality extended further still; some of
the monks showed us around the monastery and grounds, explaining the
history of the community along the way. We even learned how to make
incense in their workshop, and bought some back home to use at St.
Michael's Croydon! Most importantly, we spent much time with the
monks in conversation; we formed friendships, with our shared
interest and desire for further ecumenism.
Chevetogne
is a monastery where both Eastern and Western traditions of
Christianity meet; a crucial aspect of the monastery's ecumenical
life. The community worships in two different places; those in the
Western tradition worship in the Latin Church, while those of the
Eastern tradition worship in the Byzantine Church. But they remain as
one community; they all share mealtimes together, and – perhaps
most significantly – they live under the direction of one Abbot.
We
attended Mass and Compline in the Latin Church, and while the
services were in French, these were very easy to follow; it was
immediately obvious as to what was happening. While Matins and
Vespers in the Byzantine Crypt were less familiar to us, we realised
the monks there prayed essentially the same things as we do at
Morning and Evening Prayer back at St Michael's; and it was so
interesting to get a taste of how Christians in the Eastern tradition
pray these offices. The offices were very elaborate; much of the
language went over my head (being in a mixture of French and
Slavonic), but – thinking of us present in the congregation –
some of the monks very kindly said a few prayers in English for us.
Regardless of our familiarity with the languages, the monks were
still praying for us – and with us.
I
think one of the biggest differences in Eastern services to Western
services is how many people walk in and out as they wish during an
Eastern service. Services in the Eastern tradition, on the whole, are
significantly longer than Western services, sometimes being twice as
long or more. Timekeeping was, thus, a key difference; while you
would normally attend a whole service in the West, in the East you
can attend it all or just come to as much of the service as you feel
or require – like recharging your camera batteries, or refuelling
your car.
The
monastic offices marked the beginning and end of each day, providing
a routine of stability around our days otherwise filled with a rich
variety of activities and times in silence. Praying and eating often
happened in sequence; in the morning for instance, Matins and Mass
would be followed breakfast; lunch would be eaten immediately after
saying the Midday Office, and supper would punctuate Vespers and
Compline.
We
lived a very monastic lifestyle during our time at Chevetogne. We
stayed in simple yet perfectly comfortable rooms, we wore cassocks
when in the monastery and around the grounds, and I also found I had
more time to do things like reading, writing, occasionally visiting
the two Churches for some more silent prayer – and of course a run
in the valley. True to what I had desired in this retreat, we spent
as much time in silence as we did in prayer and worship. Furthermore,
while I had taken my mobile phone with me, I chose to keep it on
'Airplane Mode'. I was thus free from any distractions from the
outside world, which – given the United Kingdom's political
situation at the time – was quite refreshing! I think it's good
that we experienced the monastic life as fully as possible during our
retreat, in many ways – indeed, we spent a few days living pretty
much as monks.
En route home, we took the opportunity to visit Aachen Cathedral (with both Chevetogne and Aachen being close to the Belgian-German border). We were made most welcome by the Cathedral staff, who very kindly showed us around on a guided tour they ran specially for us. There are a number of very sacred relics kept in the Cathedral and in the museum nearby - probably the largest collection of relics I've seen in one place so far. During our tour, we saw the Throne of Charlemagne, a large stone structure composed of a large chair atop some steps. It came from the palace of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem; these may be the very same steps that Jesus Christ Himself walked on, when he was led up to be presented by Pilate to the crowd at His trial. How very moving and powerful indeed.
After
attending Mass and a visit to the Cathedral's museum and shop, we
returned to England. I have found this retreat both restful and
restorative, and I am already looking forward to visiting again in
the future. Have you ever been on a retreat? If not, would you
consider going on one? How might a retreat help you to become closer
to God?
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